Ramadan has begun

Water Taxi

Various Views of the CreekRamadan began this past week, which in the Muslim world means no eating, drinking or smoking from sun up to sun down for a month. Schools and businesses have shorter hours, and we work from 8:30-2pm until October. Everything really slows down. Shops are closed during the afternoon, and re-open in the evening. Iftar is the breaking of the fast, when everyone sits down and eats a big meal together. Traditionally, milk and dates are the first things one eats, followed by a buffet, followed by shisha (huka).

I made the mistake of going out on Saturday afternoon to the creek, and nearly passed out from the heat and lack of fluids. Luckily, a quick trip to a bathroom stall for a sip of water kept me going until I got back to my flat!

The creek is a good 20 minute drive away from where I live, and is much more established than my construction zone neighborhood. There are still lots of cranes around, but they're less noticeable. I didn't get to visit the souks, because they were mostly closed at 4pm, but walking down the streets and seeing dirty buildings was comforting in a strange way. It finally felt real; I could've been in Eastern Europe, or somewhere else with a bit of history.

I took a water taxi across the creek (closest thing I can compare the area to is Venice) for a dirham (approx. 33 cents) and noticed that my two companions and I were the only women aboard the boat, not to mention the only Westerners in sight. We then continued on to the cool air conditioning of the malls and grocery shopping, before heading home, feeling totally wiped out.

It is still quite warm here, although it's finally starting to cool down a bit in the mornings and evenings. The afternoons are the most intense, after the sun has been baking the place all day. I haven't been able to see the horizon since I arrived, and it's rare to see blue in the sky. I'm guessing it's a combination of heat, sand and pollution.

This really is a city made for cars, and without one I feel a little stranded, especially if I sit in my apartment all weekend. I've been trying not to do that, and have been socializing with the other new teachers, going out to eat, and trying out the various hot spot bars. I found a great one right on the water called Barasti bar, full of more expats. Even though Ramadan prohibits music and dancing, they still managed to play St. Germain, which, while lounging on a white couch under a bamboo roof, brought a smile to my face.